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Working from the bottom of this chart -- grey is
your background colour, white is your pattern colour. When working the
blocks of 4 stitches, I did the first round knit, and the second round
purled -- it is a little more work bringing the yarn forwards and backwards
all the time, but it gives a nice detail.
On the chart above, the centre 26 stitches are the
top of the glove -- more patterned than the other area of the glove which is
the palm.
The row where the red stitches are -- ignore this row and start the row
above. When you get to the stitches which have a red block below them
-- do these stitches first in another colour spare piece of yarn as a place holder --
then pass the stitches back to the left hand needle and knit as shown on the
chart. Use the 10 stitches marked to the right, for your left-hand
glove. Use the 10 stitches marked on the left, for your right-hand
glove.
When you get to the two plain rows of background colour (prior to the 10
row checkerboard) -- knit the first round, and purl the second round -- it
gives a nice defining line between the main part of the glove, and the
checkerboard band.
Finish off by knitting a full round in the background colour only, and
then cast off in purl (using the background colour).
Thumb: Unpick very carefully the ten stitches that you knit using
your spare different coloured yarn, placing them on
double-pointed needles -- picking up two stitches at either side of the
opening, for a total of 24 stitches. Knit these 24 stitches in an XOX
pattern, alternating colours on each row. Measure your thumb as you go
along -- and finish up with two rows of the block patterns to give you the 4 stitch blocks as
described above -- the first row knitted, and the second row purled.
Do a full round in the background colour, and cast off purl wise!
Tidy up any ends and you're done!
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